Creating a connector using wire.

Cut 3-4” of wire. Use your round nose pliers to bend the wire until it forms a right angle. Grasp the bend in the wire with your round nose pliers. Bring the wire up and over the top jaw of your pliers with your fingers. Grip the loop you just created with your round nose pliers and with your fingers wrap the wire down and around the bottom jaw of the pliers. Grasp the loop with your chain nose pliers and with your fingers wrap the excess wire around the stem. Coil the wire neatly around the stem. Use side cutters to trim the excess wire. Use your chain nose pliers to push the end flush against the wrapped area to ensure the sharp edge is minimized. Slide bead onto wire. Repeat steps 2-7 for other side. Tip: If you’re using more than one wrapped loop, be sure to connect the materials before coiling the wire around the stem.

 

Creating and usingconnectors.

Using Jump Rings Hold jump ring with two pairs of pliers. To open jump ring, bring a pair of pliers toward you while holding the other pliers stable. To close jump ring, reverse step 1. Attaching Beaded Head Pins to Earring Findings Gently open head pin loop with chain nose pliers. Insert open loop through earring finding. Gently close head pin loop with chain nose pliers. Creating a Connector Using an Eye Pin Slide bead(s) onto an eye pin in the pattern you desire. Use your round nose pliers to bend the eye pin until it forms a right angle with the rest of the eye pin. Grasp the very end of the eye pin with the tip of your round nose pliers. Roll the eye pin back onto itself to form a round loop. Use side cutters to trim the excess wire. Use the tip of your round nose pliers to center the loop above the rest of the wire. To connect the eye pin to other materials, gently open and close the loop with your chain nose pliers.
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Making loops.

Creating a Simple Loop Using a Head Pin

Slide beads onto the head pin in the pattern you desire. Leave a 3/8” portion of the pin uncovered. If necessary, use your wire cutters to cut off any excess wire. Use your round nose pliers to bend the exposed portion of the head pin until it forms a right angle with the rest of the head pin. Grasp the very end of the head pin with the tip of your round nose pliers. Roll the head pin toward you to form a round loop. 4. 5. 6. Use side cutters to trim the excess wire. Use the tip of your round nose pliers to center the loop above the rest of the wire. To connect the head pin to other materials, gently open and close the loop with your chain nose pliers.         Creating a Wrapped Loop Using a Head Pin         Slide beads onto the head pin in the pattern you desire. Leave at least 1” of the head pin uncovered. Use your round nose pliers to bend the exposed portion of the head pin until it forms a right angle with the rest of the head pin. Grasp the bend in the head pin with your round nose pliers. Bring the wire up and over the top jaw of your pliers. Grip the loop you just created with your round nose pliers and wrap the wire down and around the bottom jaw of the pliers. 5. 6. 7. Grasp the loop with your chain nose pliers and wrap the excess wire around the stem of the head pin. Coil the wire neatly until the entire stem is covered. Use side cutters to trim the excess wire. Use your chain nose pliers to push the end flush against the wrapped area to ensure the sharp edge is minimized.

Using clamshell bead tips.

(Lightweight Silk, Cotton or Linen Cord)

Cut your desired length of cording, leaving at least 6” to 8” extra inches on each end of your design to accommodate a simple, overhand knot. Tie your first overhand knot. Thread the first clamshell bead tip onto the cording by passing the cord into the center of the clamshell. The knot should be “cupped” inside the clamshell. Apply a small dab of glue onto the knot. Let the glue dry. Use a pair of snips or scissors to trim any excess cording as close to the knot as possible. To conceal the knot, simply close the clamshell around the knot with chain nose pliers. 7. 8. 9. Thread one side of your desired clasp onto the end of the clamshell. Use your chain nose pliers to close the end around your clasp. Press firmly to secure. String on your desired beads. At the end of your bead strand, thread your cording through the bottom of another clamshell. Tie an overhand knot, using tweezers to move the knot to fit snuggly against the hinge of the clamshell. The clamshell should fit snuggly against the bead strand. Repeat steps 4-7 to secure the clamshell and attach the second side of your clasp.

Using strech cord.

When using stretchy cord, it is important to use beads that have smooth holes, as rough or jagged holes can nick and weaken the cording. Select a gauge of stretchy cord that will slide easily through the holes of your Measure and cut the cording at least 4” longer than the desired length of your finished design. Tying a simple overhand knot Secure one end of the cording with a piece of transparent tape. String on beads in your desired pattern. Finish your piece by tying a simple overhand knot. Add a small dab of glue directly on the knot. Cut the excess cording as close to the knot as possible.        Using Cord Ends (Leather, Suede, Fibers and Thicker Cording Materials) Place one end of your cording in the channel of a cord end. Use your chain nose pliers to flatten one side of the cord end down onto the cording. Repeat step 2, flattening the second side of the cord end down on top of the first. Thread a split ring onto the hole at the end. Thread one side of your desired clasp onto the split ring. Repeat steps 1-5 to complete the second side. Quick-drying, Clear Glue Applying a small dab of glue to the end of a knotted design protects the knot from coming undone. Look for tubes of glue with a precision applicator tip.

Findings.

The term “findings” is a general term applying to the metal components, such as clasps and head pins, which are used in jewelry design. Findings are available in a wide range of metal types and finishes.

A. Crimp Beads & Crimp Tubes Crimp beads and tubes are used to finish designs strung on tiger tail. When flattened, they attach a clasp to the wire, finishing off your design with an extremely secure hold. B. Cord Ends Use cord ends to finish off designs using leather, suede, cotton or other fibers. Simply place the material into the end and flatten with chain nose pliers. The cord end has a loop on the end to which a clasp can be attached. C. Clamshell Bead Tips Clamshells are the ideal finding for finishing designs strung on lightweight silk, cotton or linen cord. The final knot of the design is “cupped” between the two sides of the shell. To conceal the knot, simply close the clamshell with chain nose pliers. D. Clasps Clasps are the finishing element of any strung design and allow you to open and close a piece of jewelry. Lobster and spring ring clasps are simple and effective solutions while decorative toggles can serve as the focal point of your design. E. Multi-strand Clasps Multi-strand designs are increasingly popular. Standard clasps can accommodate a few strands of small beads, however multi-strand clasps ensure your strands stay evenly spaced and lay flat as intended. The number of loops at the end of the clasp determines how many strands it can accommodate. F. Jump Rings Jump rings are small wire rings that are used to link different materials together or to attach charms to a chain. A small opening in the ring allows it to be easily opened and closed with pliers. Offered in a variety of shapes and gauges, circle and oval jump rings are the most widely used. G. Split Rings Split rings are shaped like a tight key ring and provide a secure attachment because they do not open easily. H. Connectors The term “connector” applies to any shape or link that is used to connect different segments of a design together. I. Earring Findings Like clasps, there are a variety of choices when it comes to earring findings. Most commonly used types include: kidney, French ear wires, lever back, hoops and chandeliers. J. Head Pins A head pin is a piece of wire with a nub, ball or decorative design on one end which prevents beads from sliding off. They are used to create beaded drops or dangles. 1.5” and 2” head pins are the most versatile lengths. K. Eye Pins Similar to head pins, eye pins differ only in that they have a loop at the end instead of a nub. The loop makes it easier to create beaded links, as it eliminates the need to create one of the loops.

Leather Choker for Pendants (Tutorial) by Rena Klingenberg.

Leather Choker for Pendants – tutorial by Rena Klingenberg

Create this choker-length pendant cord and clasp from a strip of leather and a few inches of wire.
The streamlined clasp makes it easy to string medium- to large-size pendant bails onto this choker.

I have one of these leather chokers that I made a decade ago (black leather with silver wire) – and since then I’ve worn it several times a week with a variety of pendants.
It’s still going strong!

Supplies:

• Leather cord, 2mm width – To calculate the length you need, measure the length you’d like your finished choker to be, and add 1″ (2.5 cm). (I used a 16.5″ [42 cm] cord in “Natural” color, to create a finished 15.5″ [39.3 cm] choker.)
• Wire for hook clasp – 16 or 18 gauge round, half-hard wire – 1.75″ (4.5 cm) long. (I used 18 gauge round half-hard copper wire.)
• Wire to bind leather cord ends – 2 pieces of 18 gauge round or half-round, half-hard wire – each 3″ (7.6 cm) long. (I used 18 gauge half-round, half-hard copper wire.)
• Small sturdy jump ring, split ring, or soldered ring – large enough to accommodate your leather cord plus the wire hook clasp you’re going to make.
• Ruler.
• Scissors – for cutting leather cord.
• Sharpie marker -for marking a spot on your wire.
• Wire cutter.
• Cup bur, jewelry file, or knife sharpening stone – for smoothing and rounding wire ends.
• Round nose pliers.
• Flat nose pliers.
• Chain nose pliers.
• Plastic, nylon, or rawhide jeweler’s hammer – for work hardening your wire.
• Steel jeweler’s block – for using with your hammer.

How to Make a Leather Choker

Cut your leather cord to your desired length:

Hot Tip: If your cord is stiff, kinked, or keeps curling up, you can make it behave in less than a minute with my quick tip, How to Straighten Leather Cord.

Now let’s make the hook clasp.
Cut your wire 1.75″ (4.5 cm) long, and make a mark with your Sharpie marker 0.6″ (1.5 cm) from one end of the wire:

Use your cup bur, jewelry file, or knife sharpening stone to smooth and round both ends of your wire:

Starting at the end of your wire that’s farthest from the Sharpie mark you made, grasp the end of your wire near the tip of your round nose pliers, and roll the wire end into a loop.
This loop should be as small as possible, yet able to accommodate your leather cord plus a little room for the cord to move within the loop:

Now use your round nose pliers to grasp your wire, directly on the mark you made with your Sharpie:

Bend both ends of the wire downward evenly, creating the hook part of your clasp:

Now let’s work-harden your hook clasp.
Place your hook clasp on your steel jeweler’s block, and pound it thoroughly on one side; then turn the hook over and pound the other side.

Now your hook clasp should look about like this (shown here with the jump ring that will go on the other end of my choker):

On each end of your leather cord, fold down 0.75″ (2 cm) of the cord, and use your flat nose pliers to press the fold into place:

Now cut your two pieces of 3″ (7.6 cm) long round or half-round wire.
String your jump ring onto one of your folded cord ends, and pick up one of your 3″ (7.6 cm) wires.
Using your chain nose pliers as a clamp to hold one end of the wire on top of the folded cord, wrap the wire around the folded cord to bind it.
Make neat wraps, with each wrap lying nicely next to the previous wrap.
If you’re using half-round wire, the flat side of the wire should be against the leather as you wrap:

When you’ve wrapped as much of your wire as you can, snip off any extra from the ends of your wire.
Then use your chain nose pliers to gently squeeze your wire wraps against the leather cord.
Also be sure to press down both of the wire ends firmly against the leather:

Attach your hook clasp to the other end of your leather cord, the same way you attached your jump ring to the first end (shown snipping off excess binding wire):

Now your leather choker is finished, and your hook-and-eye clasp ends should look something like this:


You can see how a medium- to large-size pendant bail can slide easily onto the cord over the streamlined clasp ends:

Hot Tip: When I make bails on my pendants, I try to always make them big enough to accommodate any size of cord, chain, or clasp my customer may want to wear with them.

These leather chokers are a great style for both guys and gals, and many of my pendant customers have purchased them over the years.
You can make them in any color of leather – and with silver, copper, brass, or other types of metal jewelry wire.
And if you’re selling pendants, these chokers are a fabulous add-on item to sell – especially if customers see you wearing one yourself.

This leather choker style is also lovely worn without a pendant – as a simple, natural necklace.
Or doubled around your wrist as a bracelet: